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Malar, just a year younger, is Tamil’s cousin by birth. Rangeela took her in when Tamil consumed a bottle of Super Vasmol hair dye in an attempt to commit suicide after her lover left her for another transgender girl early last year. Tamil, who comes from the nearby village of Vilathikulam, is considered the pretty one because of her soft, feminine appearance. Reena, tall and voluptuous with a loud personality, transitioned in 2006 at the age of 15. Rangeela has attended the festival for the past seven years, first as a transitioning cross-dresser who dabbled in sex work and now as a fully transitioned woman and guru to younger girls from her neighborhood. (They prefer to use only their first female names and abjure their last names because of a desire to leave their past lives behind.) They traveled to Koovagam from the city of Tuticorin, Tamil Nadu - nine hours by bus. A 36-year-old transgender woman and AIDS awareness social worker who chose her first name from the title of a popular 1995 Hindi film, she is here with her “clan” of informally adopted transgender “daughters”: Tamil, Reena, Aarti and Malar, who range in age from 15 to 23. In the chaos, Rangeela blends into the background. Here, the women receive blessings from a local priest. Beside the Koovagam temple there is a giant wooden statue of Aravan, a Hindu deity. The festival also features a religious ritual: the enactment of a scene from the epic poem “The Mahabharata” in which Lord Krishna transforms into a woman in order to marry Prince Aravan - whose last wish is to be married - before he is sacrificed. Bootlegged liquor abounds, and, too often, arguments escalate into fisticuffs. The meeting halls are adorned with AIDS ribbons, and food stalls earn double or triple their usual daily revenue thanks to winding lines of sweaty customers. The atmosphere is part carnival, part intimate community, as celebrants from all over the country come together to gossip, party and participate in beauty pageants and talent competitions. The women are there to make new friends, earn money through sex work and achieve spiritual cleansing through Hindu rituals.
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The female trans community has taken the heaviest hit, with a rate of infection somewhere between 17 and 41 percent - close to 100 times higher than the national average (around 0.36 percent).Įvery year, tens of thousands of people - mostly trans women but also many tribal men - congregate at Koovagam, galvanizing this otherwise sleepy town in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. According to newspaper articles and AIDS-focused nonprofits, the first HIV/AIDS cases in India were reported in the 1980s. One of the earliest references to India’s “third gender” can be found in a chapter of the Kama Sutra that instructs “eunuchs” on the most effective way to pleasure a man through oral sex. With no legal protection against discrimination from employers and little emotional support from family members (who often cast them out), trans women - also known as hijras or aravanis - typically live on the fringes of Indian society. In the meantime, the vast majority of India’s estimated 1 million-plus trans women are relegated to begging and sex work to earn a living. The decision could potentially lead to the reservation of government jobs for transgender people and legal guarantees of educational rights in the future. The trans community in India made headlines this past April thanks to a much-celebrated Supreme Court ruling that provided recognition to a “third gender” on official documents such as voter ID cards.
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By 10 that night, the grounds will be filled by a hundred or more transgender sex workers plying their trade for 200 rupees per session, or a little over $3. VILLUPURAM, India - Only two days to go before the start of religious festivities at the 2014 Koovagam festival, India’s largest gathering of transgender women, and countless used condoms lie scattered across a garbage-covered field.